Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
